Treasured Items... William Kroll

Over the last few years William Kroll has worked tirelessly to nurture an evolving family of British artisan producers to supply his needs. The result is Tender, a small clothing label that specialises in denim and making an ever growing inventory of products by hand. From a pair of wattle dyed hand linked cotton socks to a hand thrown red clay coffee mug and graphic interlock t shirts to cotton acetate sunglasses, each Tender item is is a personal and exhaustively conceived, sourced and manufactured celebration of craftsmanship. Each is a labour of love. It should come as little surprise that his most treasured item shares these values. Here, Kroll tells us the tale behind his favourite piece of knitwear...

----------

William Kroll and the Grandmother knitted Guernsey knit.

"This is a Guernsey sweater that my Grandmother knitted for me. One of the reasons that I love Guernsey knits in particular is the tightness of the knit pattern is and how the wool reacts to rain to help seal it. It affords you that bit more protection from the elements. Another, is how they are knitted. They have a pattern from the middle of the chest up to the neck whilst the rest, including the sleeves is left plain. They are the same front, back and inside out so you can wear them four ways which means you get extra wear from them. Also, when you get washed overboard and drowned, the pattern on the top represents your village and means you get returned to the correct place. Each village or town has their own distinct pattern and is complete with initials on one side.

I chose a relatively plain stitch because I liked the look of it in all honesty but if I were to be lost at sea, or anywhere else for that matter, I would be returned to Scarborough which is where my Grandmother used to go on holiday. My initials of W.A.K. are on the back and are a little stretched because she got the pattern a little mixed up. 

I've had it for about three years now and wear it almost every day during autumn and winter. These days, I only tend to wear things that I have designed but this is one of the few things that I didn't, yet wear regularly. It was a real labour of love because it is navy blue and she didn't find the yarn easy to see. It is packed full of interesting features. It's not completely faultless but that's one of the reasons why I like it so much. Ultimately, I love the fact that my Grandmother knitted it for me, that there is only one of them and when I first got it there were a few white hairs knitted in to it. It's just a lovely thing." William Kroll.

----------

View the original article here

Inspired... William Richard Green AW13

As one of the designers headlining a new era in British menswear, William Richard Green continues to fuse his British influences with a willingness to celebrate the diversity amongst the well sourced manufacturers and suppliers of these rich isles. Over the last few seasons, each collection has showcased the craftsmanship of home grown British manufacturing whilst feeling anything but heritage. As so many have talked up the 'British-ness' of their products, Green has quietly and assuredly gone about his business of building relations with suppliers and crafting pieces that are decidedly British, both inside and out. "One of my points is that the collections are British made and predominantly use British fabric. Over the life of the label, I've amassed an extended family with the guys in Nottingham and beyond but working to the deadlines of the fashion calendar can be testing. They're all characters. I love spending time with them. I'd much rather visit them than go to your typical fashion party," confirms the designer before taking a sip of his early morning coffee.

For Spring/Summer 2013, the design talent celebrated 'Home' and explored the concept of Britishness, for Autumn/Winter 13 Green sartorially examines family. From dysfunctional households to his relationship with his suppliers to the points gangs, Green pores over and plays with ideas and dynamics of family. Before leaving his Old Street base for a day at the studio, the designer talks us through his collection of research images...

"I began thinking about odd family dynamics. My parents are in the process of deciding whether or not they want to sell the family home and move to Cornwall and there's a strange mood that's developed. My family are so close and it's full of real characters. I started by looking at Moonrise Kingdom. I don't tend to look at such obvious references but I just love how Wes Anderson's always creates these intriguing family set ups. His parents divorced at eight and I think that's one of the reason why, in every one of his films from The Royal Tenenbaums to the Life Aquatic, there's this idea of separation and dysfunctional love. I became obsessed at looking at family portraits, especially the awkward ones. I was looking at how people identify themselves through repetition and then searching for the odd bit of individuality and point of difference. 

In the end, I've accumulated a vast number of images that all have an association with each other through pattern and clothing. From the uniforms of gangs to football kits that were ridiculed by friends to Lucky Luke. I've always loved Lucky Luke. Whilst I was at Central Saint Martins, I did a big project around it. I just love how clumsy the lines are and how graphic it is.

I'm really looking forward to showing this season. I'm in the process of working on a film with Morgan O'Donovan that will help tell the story of the different characters in the collection. As long as the garments come back from the factories in time, we'll be shooting between Christmas and New Year in the countryside. Despite the early start for this season I'm prepared and just waiting on production."" 

A snapshot of William Richard Green's visual research for AW13.
----------

View the original article here