Saturday, 19 January 2013

Inspired... William Richard Green AW13

As one of the designers headlining a new era in British menswear, William Richard Green continues to fuse his British influences with a willingness to celebrate the diversity amongst the well sourced manufacturers and suppliers of these rich isles. Over the last few seasons, each collection has showcased the craftsmanship of home grown British manufacturing whilst feeling anything but heritage. As so many have talked up the 'British-ness' of their products, Green has quietly and assuredly gone about his business of building relations with suppliers and crafting pieces that are decidedly British, both inside and out. "One of my points is that the collections are British made and predominantly use British fabric. Over the life of the label, I've amassed an extended family with the guys in Nottingham and beyond but working to the deadlines of the fashion calendar can be testing. They're all characters. I love spending time with them. I'd much rather visit them than go to your typical fashion party," confirms the designer before taking a sip of his early morning coffee.

For Spring/Summer 2013, the design talent celebrated 'Home' and explored the concept of Britishness, for Autumn/Winter 13 Green sartorially examines family. From dysfunctional households to his relationship with his suppliers to the points gangs, Green pores over and plays with ideas and dynamics of family. Before leaving his Old Street base for a day at the studio, the designer talks us through his collection of research images...

"I began thinking about odd family dynamics. My parents are in the process of deciding whether or not they want to sell the family home and move to Cornwall and there's a strange mood that's developed. My family are so close and it's full of real characters. I started by looking at Moonrise Kingdom. I don't tend to look at such obvious references but I just love how Wes Anderson's always creates these intriguing family set ups. His parents divorced at eight and I think that's one of the reason why, in every one of his films from The Royal Tenenbaums to the Life Aquatic, there's this idea of separation and dysfunctional love. I became obsessed at looking at family portraits, especially the awkward ones. I was looking at how people identify themselves through repetition and then searching for the odd bit of individuality and point of difference. 

In the end, I've accumulated a vast number of images that all have an association with each other through pattern and clothing. From the uniforms of gangs to football kits that were ridiculed by friends to Lucky Luke. I've always loved Lucky Luke. Whilst I was at Central Saint Martins, I did a big project around it. I just love how clumsy the lines are and how graphic it is.

I'm really looking forward to showing this season. I'm in the process of working on a film with Morgan O'Donovan that will help tell the story of the different characters in the collection. As long as the garments come back from the factories in time, we'll be shooting between Christmas and New Year in the countryside. Despite the early start for this season I'm prepared and just waiting on production."

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A snapshot of William Richard Green's visual research for AW13.
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